Historical riches on offer around Honest Toun

MUSSELBURGH'S nickname, "the Honest Toun", was earned in the 14th century when its citizens refused a reward for caring for the body of the Earl of Moray after he died here. The names Musselburgh and Fisherrow reflect the fact the town once looked to the sea for its living, with Fisherrow a port handling salt, coal and fish.

Today, it is mainly used by yachts, a view which can be appreciated as you start the walk by turning on to the Promenade, heading east. When the tide is out there are extensive mudflats, with wading birds picking away at delicacies. There is also a lovely view in both directions, east along the Firth and back to Edinburgh with Arthur's Seat prominent.

At the end of the houses, go right and then left with the path, cross Fisherrow Links and then jink left and right. Follow the path round the wall of a pumping station to reach the River Esk. Turn right along the river alongside the Loretto playing fields, towards Goose Green Bridge.

Cross the bridge, go ahead into James Street and then left into Millhill. Many of the buildings here belong to Loretto School. The distinctive building at the corner of Millhill Lane is the Colin Thomson Hall. Diagonally opposite is Trafalgar House. Built in 1812 and once owned by a sailor who fought with Nelson at Trafalgar, it is now Loretto's girls' boarding-house.

Turn left into Balcarres Road. The second clubhouse belongs to the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers, the oldest golf club in Scotland, founded in the 1740s. Golf and racing have shared these links for a very long time. Golf has been played at Musselburgh for over 400 years, and racing has taken place since 1817.

Return to Millhill, walk along to Linkfield Road, cross with care and turn right. On the corner is Loretto House, where Dr Thomas Langhorne founded the famous school in 1827. In its grounds are the remains of Loretto Chapel, where in 1543 Mary of Guise, mother of Mary Queen of Scots, came to pray for peace with England. To no avail: the chapel was sacked by Hertford's troops the following year.

Turn left into the Pinkie playing fields and follow the path round to the left and then curving right, past a large 17th century doocot. Over one door are the intertwined initials of Sir Alexander Seton and his bride Mary Hay.

Leave the park beside Pinkie St Peter's primary school, cross Pinkie Road and turn right. Over to the right is Pinkie House, a 16th-century tower, round which was built Sir Alexander Seton's 17th-century mansion.

Turn left into Park Lane. At its end go right on a path into Lewisvale Park. After 150 metres, go left up a steep, winding path to reach the open ground above. Follow the path as it curves round the large open area. At the far corner, leave the park along Double Dykes and at its end cross Inveresk Village Road to Inveresk Lodge Garden.

After viewing the garden, continue along the road. At a sharp right-hand bend go straight on ("No Through Road" sign) to reach the imposing St Michael's Church and Inveresk Cemetery. The church, on the site of an earlier foundation, dates from 1805.

Near its main door is the tomb of Major William Ramsay, who fought in several campaigns and fell at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815, aged 33.

West of the church is Oliver's Mound, where Cromwell's troops mounted a cannon. You can see why: it commands a splendid view of Edinburgh and of Musselburgh below. West again, in the next field, was a substantial Roman garrison, at the northern end of Dere Street.

Leave the church and go down the lane opposite (signed to the River Esk Walkway). Turn right along the riverside path. River and path swing sharply right back towards the town and pass a weir.

The path joins Station Road. The railway now passes well south of Musselburgh but there was once a station here, near the centre of town. The steel Mill Bridge was built in 1923 to take workers to the mills on your right. Paper was made here, and it was also Scotland's main production centre of nets for the fishing industry.

Go up steps, cross the road and continue along the riverside path to the "Roman Bridge" - actually medieval. Carry on past the statue of poet and physician David Macbeth Moir and go under the main road bridge, a Rennie design of 1806. Continue beside the river to a concrete footbridge. Cross and walk along North High Street, passing Loretto Junior School.

Pass behind the Brunton Hall, turn right through the Gracefield car park (directly behind the hall) and at the road end turn left to return to the harbour at the end of a varied and satisfying walk.

Information

Distance: 8km (5 miles) circular.

Start and finish: Car park, Fisherrow harbour.

Terrain: Roads and good paths. No special footwear needed.

Public transport: Frequent buses from Edinburgh to Musselburgh. Alight at North High Street and walk down to the harbour. Also regular trains from Edinburgh to Musselburgh (North Berwick line), though the station is some way from the town.

Refreshments: Good selection of pubs and cafes in the town.

Toilets: In the town centre.

Opening hours: Inveresk Lodge Gardens, all year, daily 10am-6pm or dusk if earlier. Admission charge (free to NTS members).

Note: Dogs are not allowed in the Pinkie playing fields.