MUSSELBURGH has been a port of some importance from the time of the Romans, who built the first harbour where Fisherrow Harbour now stands, a fort at Inveresk and the first bridge over the Esk. It is thought some kind of temple to Apollo was close to the fort.
Inveresk retained its religious significance in Christian times. There was a church there in the 11th century, known as Muscilburg, and lands in the area were gifted to the monks of Dunfermline Abbey, who held them until the Reformation.
Musselbu
rgh is known as the Honest Toun. The burghers of the town protected the Regent of Scotland, Thomas Randolph, when he was threatened by an English army just after Robert the Bruce's death. When they were offered a reward for their devotion by the Earl of Mar, they declined, saying they had only been doing their duty to the Regent. Mar then replied: "Sure, you are a set of honest fellows." From that time on, the town has proudly borne the motto Honestas.
The area around Musselburgh has been the scene of some famous battles, starting with the Battle of Pinkie in September 1547. This was a terrible defeat for the Scots, inflicted by Henry VIII's army during the "Rough Wooing". The second was the Battle of Carberry in June 1567. This is a most interesting battle in that not a shot was fired nor any blow struck.
At this confrontation, Mary Queen of Scots was urged by the Confederate Lords to rid herself of Bothwell, her third husband. She eventually agreed: Bothwell was given safe conduct to leave the country and he spent the rest of his life in exile.
Many of the town's buildings are in the Georgian style, but some pre-date that period. Two of note are the Tolbooth, built in 1496, and 16th-century Pinkie House. The latter is now part of the famous Loretto School.
We begin our ride at Musselburgh Station. Head out of the station in a northerly direction and within a few metres a roundabout is reached. Turn left on to Clayknowes Crescent and follow it as it snakes through the housing estate of the same name to end at Newhailes Road.
Turn right on to this busy road and within 300m you'll reach a roundabout. Keeping vigilant, carry straight on to the signalled junction with North High Street and then turn left into Harbour Road. At the end of this is Fisherrow Harbour. (The stretch between the end of Clayknowes Road and Harbour Road is very short. If you are not confident cycling on this busy road it will not take long to walk).
From Fisherrow Harbour follow the promenade, passing Loretto playing fields to the River Esk, where it crosses the river by Goose Green Footbridge. Turn right into Esk Side East and follow the river, passing under the bridge at Bridge Street. Continue along the eastern bank to the old bridge. This medieval bridge stands on the same site as the one built by the Romans. From here the route crosses Mall Avenue into Station Road, to where the River Esk Walkway starts following the river bank.
Follow the walkway for a little less than 1.5km - past the site of a Roman fort and Monkton Hall Golf Course - on the other side of the river - to where there is a footbridge. The cycleway to Edinburgh is routed across this. From here you are now on National Cycle Route 1 on its way south. Continue along this route for 2km, ending at the point where it passes under the bridge carrying the A1. Then follow Cowpits Road north to the A6094 at Whitecraig.
Turn left and follow the A6094 for the short distance to the end of the village, past the Dolphin Inn, and there on the other side of the road the cycle route is signposted Ormiston 5 miles.
After a little under 1km, at Smeaton, the route comes to a double-arched railway bridge. Carry on through the right-hand arch, keeping to the west path, and within 2km the path reaches the B6414 Elphinstone Road at Thornybank Industrial Estate on the edge of Dalkeith. Turn right and continue to follow Route 1 signs to the roundabout. Carry straight on to Musselburgh Road, where, after a short distance, it turns at right angles, only to do so again in the opposite direction within a few metres.
At the T-junction turn right and follow this road through the gates into Dalkeith Country Park, where Dalkeith House can be seen on the left. The De Graham family built the original castle in the 12th century, making it one of the oldest residences in Midlothian. It passed into the hands of the house of Douglas, but after 300 years was bought by the Scott family, one of whom married Charles II's son, the Duke of Monmouth.
At their marriage, the couple became the Duke and Duchess of Monmouth, Duke and Duchess of Buccleuch and Count and Countess of Dalkeith, and the castle became the Palace of Dalkeith.
In the summer months the grounds, now a country park, are open to the public. They contain a deer forest, thought to be the only remnant of the ancient Caledonian Forest still in existence in southern Scotland, and many other interesting features.
There is a charge to enter and visit the park's attractions, so if you are going to use its facilities please pay at the gate. The park management permits cyclists to go through the park at no charge, if they are using it for access purposes only, but you must follow the main access road through the park. However, this route may be subject to change.
Do not deviate on to smaller paths, tracks or other areas. There are many horses on the estate and they should be treated with respect at all times. If they are passing, stop and don't make loud noises around them. If these simple rules are observed no-one will have any problems about you being there.
In winter, when the park is officially closed, the gates are left open to allow reasonable access, but the same rules apply.
Carry on through the park in a northerly direction, crossing the River North Esk on two occasions, firs at Laundry Bridge and then at Smeaton Bridge. Continue under the A720 to the edge of the park at Old Craighall on the B6415. Turn right on to Craighall Road, which has signs with the letters RR, indicating cyclists' ring route.
Follow this route north to the second roundabout, where the National Cycle Route Signs are displayed once again, this time they are guiding cyclists west to Edinburgh. Turn left into a small housing estate, following the cycle sign for Musselburgh Station.
There are plenty of National Route signs in this area, as the route twists and turns, first through this estate, then on to a children's play area. Another tip here is to follow the line of the electricity lines overhead. Go through the play area, then cross a road on to a footpath.
At the end of this, proceed along Muckets Avenue to Whitehill Farm Road. Turn left here and within a few metres the roundabout at the start of the route is reached. Turn left and cross the bridge back to the station.
Distance: 20km (12.5 miles). Circular route.
Start and finish: Musselburgh Station, or Fisherrow Harbour where there is car parking.
Maps: OS Landranger 66 and Spokes Midlothian Cycle Map.
Terrain: Suburban streets, cycle path, estate road and riverside path. Route is generally flat.
Refreshments: Full facilities in Musselburgh and Dalkeith.
