Kitchen wizards put Gabbro on the map

THE restaurant radar, which sweeps over the city periodically, updating established and highlighting new ventures on the culinary map, does occasionally omit to include an interesting find.

Take listings covering the south side, for example – an area well served with restaurants for all tastes and budgets. You could be forgiven for thinking it's now off limits to visitors because there is barely any mention of Gabbro, a charming little bistro tucked into the basement of the Salisbury Hotel.

This classic Georgian building was revamped by owners James and May Woods when they took over the business a couple of years ago, and while the bedrooms retain ornate wood panelling and marble fireplaces, the dining space has jettisoned any flavour of this grand epoch in favour of a pared- down contemporary look.

And rather than jar, as can sometimes happen when two very different styles are merged, this fusion happens to work well.

There are around 32 covers but the place was only a third full the evening we dropped by. I don't think that's too surprising two weeks after Christmas. It did mean, though, we were attended to in double quick time by Ms Woods herself, who is the most welcoming host I've come across in a while. That takes care of front of house, but working behind the scenes, chefs Grant Stewart and John Cook are equally enthusiastic and have put together an ever-changing, original menu using high-quality local produce, that should suit just about everyone's taste, including vegetarians.

How does roasted aubergine escalivada with romesco sauce sound? Or beef carpaccio with pesto to start and to follow, perhaps poussin with braised baby gem or rib eye of beef with herb tomatoes stuffed with scallops?

This is just a small example of the kitchen's creative talent. I'd love to know exactly who came up with the idea of pairing foie gras with bananas flambéed in rum. It might sound an odd combination but it was amazingly good and although rich, the flavours were well balanced.

My martial arts friend with the huge appetite had swapped a night of training for a cassolette of sautéed scallops and tiger prawns, purchased directly from the market that morning, we were informed.

Served on a bed of ratatouille, this intro could easily have satisfied two. After a taste test, I had to agree with his verdict of "fantastic and bursting with flavour".

And he was just as complimentary when the duck arrived. Again, this was a sizeable portion but he managed just fine to work steadily through two breast portions, drizzled in raspberry jus, the creamiest of mashed potatoes, and a handful of crispy leeks.

He also managed to help our foodie ally across the table to finish her chicken and braised spinach, which she found too bland so didn't rate a top score. However, the accompanying risotto with cream bisque was "quite delicious", and for that alone, she was more than content.

I chose griddled sea bass and despite being undeniably fresh and meaty, it was just a little on the crisp side for my liking. But the chunky roasted potato wedges and ramekin packed to the brim with the most wonderful saffron beurre blanc, were seriously good.

Gabbro's wine list is compact and sensibly priced with no silly mark-ups, and at £16.50, for a 2006 lush, Chilean Carmenere, we reckoned we had got a real bargain.

If you have room for dessert after such a feast, or you're just plain greedy, you might want to try hot chocolate mi-cuit (meaning half cooked) with chocolate ice cream, or nougatina mousse, or the intriguing- sounding rosemary créme brulée.

We ordered the latter to share. It was heavenly and despite choosing a herb that is traditionally used in savoury dishes because of its pungency, the boys in the backroom got it right again and gained another star for originality.

You can retire to the far end of the room where the owners have created a relaxation area, furnished with comfy sofas – a perfect spot for coffee or cognac to round everything off, or a safe little zone for kids to play and investigate the games pack supplied by the canny management team.

There is another seating area with views over Arthur's Seat in the walled garden, but it's a bit too cold for al fresco dining. Never mind, spring's just around the corner, by which time, this bistro should be firmly on the map.

THE BILL
• Casolette of scallops £6.95
• Foie gras £7.95
• Breast of chicken £12.95
• Duck £13.95
• Seabass £12.95
• Rosemary créme brulée £3.95
• Bottle of Chilean Carmenere £16.95
• Soft drink £1.25
Total: £76.90

Quality ****
Menu choice ****
Surroundings ***
Service ****
Value ****

• Gabbro @ The Salisbury Hotel, 43-45 Salisbury Road, 0131-668 2853