Bounce on the seats at child-friendly Agua

Apex makes kids welcome with good food

AFTER planning and rescheduling several times, we had eventually found a date to suit everyone.

We booked a table for six at the Apex City hotel's restaurant, Agua, but just as we were about to leave home, we got a message to say the babysitter had let our friend down, so he was regrettably opting out.

"Bring Liam with you", we replied and after a delayed start, the flustered dad rolled in with toddler in tow.

We'd given the restaurant a quick call to request a high chair for this bundle of energy and he was more than happy to climb in, although the novelty wore off quickly when he realised there was more fun to be had jumping off the banquette seating.

But he was coaxed back to the safety of his chair by the promise of his very own menu. The hotel chain has produced a 'healthy living' menu for kids, which in kid speak uses "the bestest, scrumptious, yummiest ingredients around", with the promise of dessert – "but only if you're good".

He was, and after a mini- helping of meatballs with pasta and tomato sauce, he was rewarded with a scoop of vanilla ice-cream.

Meanwhile, the grown ups had gone for starters ranging from a very flavoursome tomato and pepper soup with a substantial stock base; a creamy tian of crab, served alongside light tendrils of beetroot; and confit duck bons-bons, drizzled in plum sauce, with a flick of mint yoghurt for contrast.

Apart from presentation, this was the only intro that didn't score highly. It really was too dense and rather bland.

The restaurant was pretty busy and despite what appeared to be a full complement of staff, we waited rather too long for the next course, so that might be the reason why three waitresses suddenly appeared with our mains.

But you know how it is when too many people get involved doing one job, we ended up with the wrong cutlery, wine poured into the wrong glass and no table water but it wasn't a big deal and we didn't make a fuss.

Three of us chose sea bass, baked just enough to crisp the skin without drying out the flesh, accompanied by a neat little dome of mashed parsnips sitting on a pool of rock chive cream sauce.

The fillets, although meaty, were on the small side but that was the only complaint. Everything else got the thumbs up.

Our vegetarian friend didn't fare quite so well and felt the tempting description on paper didn't quite transfer to the plate.

Feta and roasted pepper is always a good partnership, but if you combine a salty, crumbly cheese with something like filo pastry, the overall effect is a dish that is far too dry on the palate.

The swirl of rocket pesto, served more for artistic flair than a culinary bonus, it would seem, didn't help. Perhaps a vegetable coulis might have been more appropriate.

The others went for medallions of Ayrshire pork with a hazelnut crust, champ potatoes and port wine sauce.

Again, the presentation was good and although it was well received and tasty, both parties stressed the pork was a bit too tough.

And so to pudding, and the interesting-sounding Valrhona milk chocolate marquise, which got five votes. Full marks for this.

It was rich and utterly delicious. With the texture of a mousse, yet firm enough to be served in slices, it wouldn't have been a chore going for a re-run, it was that good.

Pear and almond tart landed at the far end of the table and was described as amazing, so the rest of us asked for a taste-test to confirm, but were refused on the grounds the sugar fix was needed for the drive back to Glasgow.

We finished off a bottle of spicy Nero d'Avola and although there were calls for more, we made do with a couple of cocktails to bring the evening to a close, before Liam went walkabout around the galley-style dining area to show off his new shoes.

Work to revamp the Grassmarket has left it looking like a building site, but don't let that, or the varied reactions on our recent visit, put you off heading to Agua.

It is well worth making the effort – with or without the kids. Book on-line, and you get even better deals than those already advertised.

THE BILL
• 6 x set menu £60
• 1 child's spaghetti bolognese £2.95
• 1 ice-cream £1.95
• Bottle Nero d'Avola £14.95
• 2 x Coca cola £3
• 2 x Fosters £6
Total: £88.85

Quality ***
Menu Choice ***
Surroundings ****
Service ***
Value ***

• Agua Restaurant, Apex City Hotel, 51 Grass-market, 0131-243 3456