Enjoy flip side with pancakes

IF you like to keep abreast of food-related dates then you'll know that they tend to come around thick and fast in the early part of the year.

You'll already have boiled your haggis on Burns Night, shucked your oysters for Valentine's Day and will be looking forward to making Irish stew on St Patrick's Day and hot cross buns at Easter, not to mention preparing special lunches for Mother's and Father's Days. Meanwhile, a quick scan of your wall-planner will reveal that Shrove Tuesday arrives this week which, of course, means pancakes.

Almost everyone enjoys pancakes in one form or another and, as you are digging out your best non-stick pan and hunting for your foolproof batter recipe, you may be wondering why you don't make them more often. Once you've flipped a family-sized batch you may remember why – they can be deceptively time consuming. If it takes two minutes to make one, then that means 20 minutes standing over your stove to produce ten and, let's face it, the novelty wore off after the third.

However, if you have time on your hands and a good magazine to flick through then making pancakes can be quietly therapeutic.

Before you set about frying and flipping you should, of course, know what you want to use your pancakes for. From a basic sweet recipe with sugar and lemon juice to exciting varieties such as coconut pancakes filled with Goan fish curry, there are endless varieties and accompaniments to choose from, covering all courses and cultures.

The Russians, for instance, make blinis, which are mini- pancakes that accompany fish starters such as smoked salmon and caviar. Being a nation of sweet eaters, we have our own snack version – the Scotch pancake or drop scone – which uses half the amount of milk to produce a thicker batter that doesn't spread as far in the pan or on the griddle. They take two or three times as long to cook, but once you eat them straight from the pan with butter and jam along with a pot of tea you shouldn't be complaining.

While recipes involving pancakes are quite popular as starters and mains, it's as a dessert that they tend to come into their own. Warm pancakes filled with ice cream and drizzled with chocolate sauce are guaranteed to get the kids' eyes lighting up, while crepes Suzette, which involves frying your pancakes with butter, orange rind and Cointreau then flaming with brandy, is a classic French favourite for the grown-ups. One popular city restaurant does a chocolate and orange cheesecake made with layers of pancake that is truly unforgettable.

But you needn't be bound by recipes which involve lengthy shopping lists. You've probably got the basic pancake ingredients in your larder and fridge anyway, so in the spirit of Lent it's a question of turning out your kitchen cupboard to see what you can use up. Remember that some of the best cooking involves experimentation, though Pot Noodle pancakes with lime pickle and mustard might be a step too far.

Andy McGregor is chef/proprietor at Blonde Restaurant, 75 St Leonard's Street, 0131-668 2917.

RECIPES

Basic pancake recipe, serves 8

Ingredients:

100g plain flour, sifted

300ml milk

1 egg

Pinch of salt

Cooking oil

Method:

Place the flour and salt in a mixing bowl, add the egg, mix in then gradually add the milk until you have a smooth batter.

Heat a little oil in a non-stick frying pan, pouring away any excess. Keeping the pan hot, pour in enough batter to coat the base of the pan, fry for 1 minute then flip over with a spatula and fry the other side. Transfer the pancake to a plate or tray and repeat until the mixture is used up.

Crepes Suzette, makes 6

Ingredients:

50g butter

25g caster sugar

25ml Cointreau

50ml brandy

Juice and grated zest from 1 orange

6 pancakes, prepared as in previous recipe

Method:

Gently melt the butter in a frying pan, then add the sugar, orange juice, zest and Cointreau. Heat until the sugar has dissolved. Fold pancakes into triangles and place in the pan. Warm the brandy, pour over the pancakes and set alight. Serve immediately.

Scotch pancakes (drop scones), makes 8-10

Ingredients:

50g self-raising flour, sifted

1 tbsp caster sugar

1 egg, whisked

75ml milk (full fat)

Cooking oil

Method:

In a bowl mix the flour and sugar. Stir in the egg and gradually add the milk until you have a thick, smooth batter.

Lightly coat a heavy-based pan or griddle with oil then heat until hot but not smoking.

Drop a spoonful of the batter on to the pan or griddle, keeping the heat steady and cook for 2-3 mins then flip over and cook the other side so that both sides are golden brown. Place the cooked pancake on a tea towel and cover with another to avoid drying out. Repeat until the mixture is used up.