I can't stomach this EU mince!

FRENCH President Nicholas Sarkozy has been schmoozing around London these past few days – hob-nobbing with the great and the good, saying how important it is we remain in Europe, etcetera.

Well, I don't buy it – and if ever there was an example of why we were served up a beauty this week. Annex III, Section V, Chapter III, point 2(B) of European Regulation No 853/2004 to be exact.

It's designed to prevent food poisoning from eating steak tartare by ensuring that all beef mince cannot be made from meat that has hung for more than five days.

Given that British meat normally matures for 14-28 days it means any left-overs from butchering will be binned (driving meat costs up) or that cattle will have to be retained only for mince production (also driving the cost up). It goes without saying the mince will be less tasty too!

It takes me back to 1976 when I went to France to see Hibs play against FC Sochaux in Montbeliard. My mate Ian Gilzean and I sat down in a local restaurant. Steak tartare was chosen, as we reasoned it must be steak with tartare sauce – parading our linguistic and culinary ignorance in one easy go.

The waitress hauled out a trolley with a pile of minced beef, onions, garlic, capers, chillies – and an egg. In front of us she chopped the veg, mixed them with the mince and then added the egg yolk. Ian and I joked these French even show you them making a meal before they cook it – only for her to split it between two plates and serve it up cold and raw. We recoiled in disgust – but then ate it and liked it

That was my introduction to steak tartare and 30 years on I love the stuff, it's practically my signature dish in the kitchen.

I find the idea, therefore, that to prevent a very small number of people, mostly in France, from risking a tummy upset, the production of all beef mince for Europe's 280 million population must be regulated – as certifiably mad.

No evidence has been shown that hanging meat for 14-28 days encourages more bacteria to accumulate – the primary factor is the temperature it is stored at, not the time.

Secondly, the most dangerous ingredient of steak tartare is the raw egg – which may have salmonella! And anyone who knows their onions would never buy prepared mince to make steak tartare – they would buy a steak and mince it themselves or ask the butcher to mince a steak on purchase.

The only way to make steak tartare safe is to cook it – which defeats the whole point!

The European project is a taking us down the wrong road to a bigger, more alien, detached society. The French, Sarkozy included, continue to be in love with it.

Steak Tartare is mince, but not as we know it. The French can keep these regulations – after all we know they'll just ignore them anyway.

Neverending Tory?
THERE are days when I wonder how I ever was a Conservative. This Monday was one of them. Dawn Primarolo, the English Health Secretary announced she was considering banning cigarettes from being displayed in shops.

This prim paternalist believes that kids are seduced into smoking by the serried ranks of fag packets on walls – why cigarettes should have such an effect when shelves of toothpaste or condoms don't make them clean their teeth or practice protective sex hasn't occurred to her all-knowing mind. If this wasn't bad enough, David Cameron then said the idea is "worth looking at".

If the Conservative leader can't see that making tobacco smoking more mysterious, more rebellious, more unconventional will also make it more desirable amongst the young then he's in the wrong job. Cannabis smoking has grown immensely while being illegal and without the benefit of shop displays – just ask the question why David. I look at the political parties and I really, really struggle to say there's any that will get my vote next time round.

Unaffordable homes
ONE of the more ridiculous fashions of recent years has been the creation of the term "affordable housing".

Used by politicians and self-serving community activists, one person's affordable house is, however, someone else's king's ransom. Property has been climbing in price for about fifteen years but with the current economic correction that is beginning to change.

Banks and building societies are marginally increasing mortgage rates, reducing their cheaper deals and tightening their qualifications. Just as some people thought they might be able to get on the property ladder they will find it is pulled up from above.

So don't hold your breath for property prices to become more accessible – the new problem will be affordable mortgages!