IT’S said that growing up is never easy, but that’s not a patch on growing old. Wrinkles, laughter lines and ageing in general are the sworn enemies of many people as they continually fight a losing battle with their ageing faces.
But, while the struggle may be an uphill one, no one can complain that they aren’t provided with a suitable array of ammunition with which to wage war on those telltale signs of getting old. The cosmetics industry is simply heaving with "wrinkle-bust
ing" products and treatments that promise to reduce the evidence of age on our faces.
The latest is Isologen, a therapy which claims to be a natural alternative to collagen and Botox injections. The procedure arrived in this country last year from America, where 1200 people have already been treated. Uniquely, it collects the body’s own fibroblasts - the cells which make and secrete collagen - and grows them in a laboratory before replacing them in the skin, where they continue to produce new collagen indefinitely.
Collagen is the fibrous substance which gives skin its "fullness" and youthfulness. But over the years, as our skin ages or is damaged by the sun or smoking, less and less collagen is produced, and so the skin sags and furrows are formed.
And while beauty "fillers" such as collagen injections and Botox instantly plump up the skin, they disappear after around three months. In contrast, the Isologen technique is barely noticeable at first - but once under way it gets better and better for a year.
To grow the fibroblasts, a tiny patch of skin is taken from behind the patient’s ear. The theory is that this area is less exposed to the elements, so that the collagen-producing fibroblasts are stronger and more vigorous than those in the sun-damaged skin of your face. This patch of skin is sent to the Isologen lab, where the fibroblasts are separated and cultured in a growth medium of amino acids, nutrients and sugars for six to eight weeks until the required amount - usually about 1.2ml - has developed. By now it is a thick, pasty liquid like glue.
The patient is called back to the plastic surgeon and the fibroblast-rich liquid injected into the dermis - the lower layer of skin - along the length of the wrinkles. It’s an outpatient procedure performed with a local anaesthetic and leaving just a little bruising.
The treatment is repeated twice more at fortnightly intervals and costs from £2500. However, the manufacturers promise that its spectacular results will last for many years with no top-up treatments necessary.
Harley Street cosmetic plastic surgeon Peter Ashby, who has treated more patients with Isologen than any other surgeon, says the system is a revolutionary breakthrough in anti-ageing therapies.
"I am very impressed by the results I have been getting from Isologen. But what is really important is what the patient thinks - and they too have been delighted," he says.
"One month after the fibroblasts have been injected the lines and wrinkles begin to soften and after treatment, which usually consists of three separate injections, you don’t have to come back ever again - unlike Botox and collagen, which need to be topped up every three months. Another really good thing about Isologen is the fact that you can’t be allergic to it or catch any diseases from it as it is made up of your own cells - unlike collagen, which is derived from cows."
He adds: "Also, Isologen can’t over-correct. With collagen you tread a fine line between a wrinkle and bump, as it is possible to inject too much, but because this is a natural product from your own body it is different. It knows your own genetic make-up and therefore when to stop producing collagen."
But some scientists believe there are drawbacks to the treatment, as the longer cells are grown outside the body and the more they are manipulated, the greater the potential for unexpected changes. There are already several methods for growing skin cells taken from people with severe burns, to generate enough new skin to treat their wounds, but only a few hundred patients a year are treated. If Isologen’s therapy catches on, tens of thousands of people could soon be treated this way annually - and for purely cosmetic reasons.
Might side effects not seen so far then become apparent? "It has crossed my mind," says Ashby, though he still believes the procedure is safe.
But with growing concern over the safety of Botox injections, Isologen, as a more organic option, may prove more popular. Indeed, since its launch in the UK last November more than 150 surgeons have signed up to administer the treatment, including some in Glasgow.
Botox, of course, is botulinum toxin, a poison derived from bacteria that blocks nerve pathways and thereby prevents muscle contraction. The thinking is that as repeated muscle contractions, such as smiling and frowning, cause wrinkles, it makes sense to iron out the wrinkles by paralysing the muscles.
HoWEVER, if the price of Isologen puts you off, the cheaper Botox is readily available in Edinburgh. While side effects of this treatment are still not fully known, the experts say negative results only occur if too much Botox is given or the dose is not sited accurately.
If you fancy neither the idea of giving a skin sample nor facing the needle, altogether less-intrusive anti-ageing treatments are available.
Carol Rae, who works from a salon within Fitness First in Abercromby Place, has been meeting the needs of clients worried about the condition of their faces for nearly ten years.
"I work with Caci treatments, which is basically facial toning," she says. "A microcurrent is delivered deep into the skin through cotton-topped probes that make the muscles think they are exercising.
"Each treatment lasts an hour and I recommend a course of ten to see lasting results. This costs £299 for the course, but results speak for themselves and my clients have reported that their skin looks and feels much more youthful. There are no side effects and it is completely safe."
So if those wrinkles are becoming too much, you likely don’t have to live with them. But remember, if you only get your face treated a crease-free complexion might look rather odd sitting on top of a 50-year-old body.
• For more information on Isologen and surgeons visit
www.isologen.com